Step 3 - The mold
Now here comes everything you’ve waited for. The ~*+mold+*~.
There are hundreds of materials you can use for this- till this day, I have only worked with Silcolan NV and Oomoo, which are both silicones. Oomoo is much cheaper than Silcolan and easier to thicken, so I will keep on working with this.
For the arm-pieces, I built some sort of wall made out of plastilin around the model, to keep the silicone from running out. I always start with a very thin layer of silicone I brush on carefully, so I can make sure there are no bubbles between the model and the silicone. Just follow the instructions on how to handle the silicone, then brush on first layer. Wear old clothes, gloves, maybe even safety goggles, open the window and make sure you don’t get silicone into your carpet or onto the floor in general (that shit can be extremely slippery). Wait till the first layer is fully cured.
For the second (and sometimes third) layer, I mixed the silicone with a thixotropic agent named Thi-Vex. It thickens the silicone and you can smear it all over the model! Like this, it does not drip right off and you get the necessary thickness for the walls with less material.
After everything has fully cured, carefully take the mold from the model. Make sure you do neither harm to the mold, nor the base, you will still need it! But first you cut away protruding edges, bits and pieces and brush the dust out of it.
Then you place it back on the model+base and put plasterbandages over it, so it does not bend out of shape while you are casting!
See? It keeps its slightly round shape!
Step 4 - Casting
Now that you have your mold, it is not far too the finished result! I use Smooth Cast 65 for this, because it is easy to handle, relatively cheap and perfect for casting round and hollow things, such as the armpieces. To not use too much of this material, I put some Ure-fil 3 in it- it’s just a filler and it works perfectly fine without it, but it saves costs.
You should always wear gloves when you work with Smooth Cast, as well as old clothes that cover your skin and safety goggles + open the window. The usual. Sadly I lack pictures of how I mix the two components together, pour them into the mold and turn the mold from side to side, so it gets everywhere, but I usually do two layers and since Smooth Cast is the closest thing to magic I have ever experienced, it might be a sweet experience, to try it yourself first :>
I normally make 2-3 layers!
However…. once it’s fully cured…. this is what you get. Basic model, mold, cast piece. Awwyesss!!
Step 5 - Sanding
One of the things that makes Smooth Cast 65 so amazing is, that you can cut the protruding edges of a freshly cured piece with a pair of scissors- it saves you a bunch of work, trust me! Also, you can now sand and file straight away, the material is really easy to sand and get in shape. What you see here is btw the first thing I ever made with it, so it took a LOT of work to sand it into shape etc ;)
Looks much better like this - almost done!!
Step 6 - painting
Of course noone would want an armor the color of tupperware- so you better do something about it and paint it- I usually do this in two steps:
At first I paint the whole thing with a metal bronze color. It’s basically small metal pigments mixed with a varnish and comes in a small jar.
For used-optics, I use black high-gloss spraypaint- I spray it into a small glass, mix it with the liquid bronze. Then I take a small sponge with fine pores and dab it onto it. Easy as pie.
And then it’s finished~~
Thank you to
Necrow for introducing me to plaster and plastilin
bloodyspook for telling me about the clever use of benzine
Corroder for introducing me to Smooth Cast and answering all of my stupid questions :3c